A Family Vacation Destination: VIEQUES  

Change is in the air on the small lush island of Vieques, just 6 short miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico. Once the site of a large US Navy base, it has recently found its freedom—the Navy pulled out of Vieques in 2003, creating conservation land where the bases once stood. The island is just beginning to get its “tourism legs.”  The W Hotel chain has recently purchased the only resort on the island, the Martineau Bay Resort (formerly a Wyndham property), and American Airlines has expanded its service to fly into Vieques from NYC. 

What’s the big attraction? The beaches. They are spectacular. If you vacation on Vieques, the beach is your main event. So plan for it. 

The best beaches are a bit of a challenge to get to, but they’re well worth the effort. They’re located down long dirt roads (which can be filled with large deep, muddy puddles) that wind through acres of jungle.  Renting a 4 wheel drive jeep is a must. Also, plan on bringing a collapsible cooler and a light-weight beach blanket. If you don’t mind schlepping, think about packing your beach chairs and a good, sturdy umbrella.  

My favorite beach was Red Beach, located south of Isabel II, off Rte 997. It’s one of the most beautiful beaches and also one of the easiest to get to.  Just beyond Red Beach is Blue Beach, which is equally spectacular.  The Vieques Map (located free all over the island) shows all the beaches (all beaches are open to the public in Vieques) and the best way to get to them. 

Where to Eat: 

Bananas, in Esperanza is a fun, open-air spot for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The prices are very family friendly, as is the menu. Located just across the street from the water, it’s a great spot to sit and watch the day go by. 787-741-8700 

Tradewinds Café overlooks the water in the tiny village of Esperanza, Tradewinds strikes the perfect chord—a relaxed island feel with good food at a moderate price.  Don’t miss the frozen key lime pie for dessert. Open for lunch and dinner, reservations suggested during peak season. 787-741-8666 

Uva is arguably the best restaurant on Vieques. Not meant for little ones, it’s a great place to go with teenagers, or on a quiet date without the kids. The menu is pricey, but the food is excellent. Appetizers run $14-$16, entrees $30-$39.  787-741-2050. Reservations recommended during high season.

The M Bar falls into the same category as Uva. Not really a kid place—unless your child is older with a sophisticated palate. This relaxed outdoor restaurant and bar is going for a chic, "South Beach” vibe. Entrees: $20-32, and there is pizza and pasta on the menu for the younger crowd. 787-741-4000

The Vequenese, located on the main street in Isabel II, (on Munoz Rivera) has the best sandwiches in town. It‘s outdoor counter  betrays its culinary splendor. Don’t miss the pollo con todo sandwich. Great place to stock up your cooler before hitting the beach. 

The best supermarket is Super Descuento Morales located on Rte 200 before the 997 intersection on the way toward Isabel II. It doesn't look like a supermarket from the road--it looks more like a corner store. The main entrance and parking lot is actually on the left side. It's very large and pretty much has everything you need, including good bottled water. It’s a good place to stock your cooler for the beach. 

Things To Do:  

The Bioluminescent Bay Tour: Kayak across Mosquito Bay and create a greenish blue halo around the paddles. With each stroke, millions of dinoflagellates come alive and light up the calm waters of the bay. At night, the Bioluminescent Bay is truly a magical experience. Best experienced on a moonless night, power boats explore the calm, shining waters. 787-741-2522.

Go sailing! There are a couple of outfits who take people out on charters. Vieques Sailing Tours: 787-508-7245 and Marauder: 787-435-4858. 

Go snorkeling: Abe's Snorkeling & Biobay tours: 787-741-2134/ 787-436-2686. The snorkeling off Vieques is the best in the region. Hector’s By the Sea also arranges snorkeling trips: 787-741-1178 

Rent kayaks: from Esperanza there is a beautifully protected area to kayak. There is very little boat traffic around Vieques which makes it the perfect place to swim and kayak. Try Fun Brothers Kayak Rentals: 787-435-9372. 

Go on a Mountain Bike Tour: Vieques is a mountain-biker’s dream, with miles and miles of dirt roads, jungle paths, mini-mountains and lush scenery. La Dulce Vida offers specialized, custom trips to suit your ability and appetite for adventure. www.bikevieques.com 

Beach Rentals:  Extreme Scooter in Esperanza rents beach equipment (chairs, etc.).  787-741-8141, 787-435-9345. They also do kayak tours, which look like great fun. There's a lady from Orlando who sells beach stuff in Isabel II. Her name is Wendy. Her shop is called Island Time and is located on Plinio Peterson. Phone number: 787-741-8041. She also rents boogie boards. Finally there's a place called Blue Caribe Kayakes which rents snorkeling stuff They also do the bioluminescent bay trips: 787-741-2522.

Where to Stay: 

Martineau Resort: This pleasant resort is the only large resort on the island. The constant lull of the surf and tropical songbirds add to the serenity of the property. The rooms are large—600 square feet and well appointed. The staff is exceptionally friendly and helpful. Room rates start at $189.The resort will reopen in 2008 after a full renovation under its new ownership, W Resorts. 

Hix Island House: An “Eco-Hip” Hotel, 787-741-2302. Located in the hills along Rte 995, the large, architecturally interesting concrete structures bring the outside in. Each loft/room has a full kitchen, an outdoor shower, and is literally open on a full side to the outdoors. Room rates start at $220 high season. www.hixislandhouse.com

Car Rentals: 

There are several car rental agencies on the island, Martineau Car Rental 787-741-0087 (across from Martineau Resort). Jeeps start at $60/day. Rentals run full weeks only and reservations must be made well in advance.  4 Wheel drive is a must—the best beaches on the island are located down rugged dirt (muddy) roads through dense vegetation.

Maritza’s Car Rental 787-741-0078, Island Car Rental: 787-741-1666 

Vieques Map: www.Viequesmap.com