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 4 Teenagers, 7 Days in Southern Ireland
Southern Ireland, with its rolling green hills, rich heritage and funny, warm people, seemed just the place to explore with our two teenage daughters and their two best friends. Traveling with teenagers is a challenge, but it carries with it great rewards if the trip is well planned.
DAY ONE:
 We flew overnight from Boston to Shannon Airport, then rented a van and drove to Dingle for the beginning of our adventure. Dingle is a quintessential Irish village with colorful shops and people. After a brief nap at our B&B, the girls wandered around the town and checked out the local shops. We found the food to be surprisingly delicious, with most of the produce grown locally, and a great selection of fresh seafood right off the boats in Dingle harbor. We took a beautiful long walk out to the lighthouse, where we could see miles of craggy Irish coastline and watch the fishing boats coming in with the day’s catch.
DAY TWO:
 We planned a two-day bike excursion around the Dingle Peninsula. After a hearty breakfast at the B&B, we packed our luggage into the van, and set off to rent bikes in town. We made a reservation at Slea Head Farm (011-353-66-915-1414), which is at the tip of the Dingle Peninsula, 12 miles from Dingle town. Our plan was to cycle out to Slea Head, check into the B&B and let the girls rest while we (the parents) rode back to Dingle to retrieve the van with the luggage. It worked out beautifully. The bike ride was fun and exciting and it gave us a chance to feel the Irish countryside and take it in at an enjoyable pace. The peninsula is a literal outdoor museum, dotted with over 2000 monuments from as far back as the Neolithic age. There are many, many monuments to check out and lots of spots to take in the spectacular coastline along the way. Twelve miles was the perfect distance for the kids. We stopped at two outdoor cafes along the way for cold drinks and lunch, and arrived in Slea Head in early afternoon. Slea Head, with its green, rocky earth, juts out into the Atlantic overlooking the Blasket Islands, the home of some of Ireland’s most famous writers. The Blasket Center, which is open to the public (small admission) has numerous fascinating exhibits explaining family and community life on the rugged, wind-beaten island a mile off the coast. It was fascinating for the kids to imagine what life must have been like one hundred years ago in this wind-swept, harsh but beautiful place. For dinner we drove two miles back toward Dingle to the Stone House Restaurant where we enjoyed a wonderful dinner outside, overlooking the foggy Atlantic Ocean.
DAY THREE:
 We started the day at the Great Blasket Center, a state-of-the-art modern building dedicated to the heritage of the Great Blasket Islanders. We enjoyed the 30-minute video about the island with black and white footage of the last inhabitants, and audio of some of the prose from the Island’s famous writers. The wind that day was too great for a ferry ride out to the island, where several of the homes have been preserved; we wished we had an extra day to explore Great Blasket Island and picnic on the beach before heading back to Dingle town. But instead, we climbed back on our bikes and headed back around the peninsula and back to town. That night, after dinner, we wandered around town, popping into the many pubs enjoying the local musicians.
 DAY FOUR:
The Dingle Peninsula is known for its rich archeological sites, so after breakfast, we headed over to Kirrary B&B for a tour with Scruid Archeology Tours. We climbed in their minibus and traveled over hill and dale around the Dingle Peninsula in search of hidden castles, forgotten Celtic forts and mysterious stone tombs. The “off the beaten path” approach was wonderful, and we loved driving down the winding Irish lanes away from the main roads of the Dingle Ring. The girls were apprised of the history of the area and its many historic inhabitants. (Scruid Archeology Tours: 066/915/1606).
After the tour, we loaded up the van and drove on to the Ring of Kerry, and the tiny town of Portmagee. Portmagee is located at the tip of the Kerry Peninsula, on the “Skellig Ring.” It’s a lovely, colorful, small fishing village located on a gorgeous harbor where boats are available daily to take visitors out to the famous Skellig islands.
 We arrived late in the afternoon and checked into the Moorings Hotel, a wonderful 14 room hotel with fine restaurant underneath. From our windows we could see the fishing boats coming in with the day’s catch. Portmagee was our favorite spot on the trip—we took long walks along the rocky beaches and walked across the bridge to Valencia Island. We had a wonderful meal at the pub beside the Moorings and enjoyed their local Irish entertainment late into the night.
Just off Portmagee’s coast lies the Skelligs Rocks, giant pyramids of stone that, for centuries, housed hermit monks in stone beehive huts, thought to be some of the earliest monastic settlements in Ireland. Early Christian men lived on the rocks in the middle of the ocean for centuries.
 DAY FIVE:
We booked a boat trip out to the Skellig Islands for the afternoon, and and passed the morning exploring Portmagee on foot. We spent time at the Skellig Experience Center, located just across the bridge (5 minute walk) on Valentia Island. The center did a great job of explaining what is known of the early settlers who made the giant stone islands their home for centuries. We picked up lunch at the Skellig Mist Bakery, and headed to the docks where the tour boats were waiting. The boat trip brought us out and around both islands. From the boat visitors, can see massive rock cliffs with intricate paths ascending to the top. Due to the rough seas, our boat didn’t land on the island. On calm days, visitors can land and climb up the steep cliffs to stone structures dating back to the 6th century. The trip lasted just under two hours; it was nice to be on the water and see the beautiful green, rocky cliffs which make up the Kerry coastline.
DAY SIX:
 With the trip nearly over, we sadly packed up the van and continued our way around the Ring of Kerry, by way of the Skellig Ring. We discovered the Skellig Chocolate Factory in the middle of the countryside and stopped for a taste tour. What a treat! This little factory in the middle of nowhere makes its own chocolate and slices up samples for visitors. We continued along the ring, and stopped for lunch in Sneem, a charming little town halfway around the ring. We spent the afternoon and night in Kenmare, another charming little town with vividly colored shops and a quaint downtown atmosphere. Its fresh appearance made it Ireland’s “Tidy Town” winner in 2000.
DAY SEVEN:
 The highlight of our last day in Ireland was a visit to the Muckross House, located on Kenmare Rd, outside of Kilarney. The Muckross House is a beautiful Victorian stately home built in 1843. There are also 7 farms on the estate which depict rural life in the 1930s. Character actors in each farmhouse explain to visitors what their life was like in rural Ireland nearly 100 years ago. The girls loved the tour of the mansion; wandering the grounds and exploring the farms (complete with kittens and chickens) was a favorite activity, too. Tours of the mansion are offered throughout the day (45 minutes) and are both fascinating and entertaining.
Where to Stay:
Dingle:
Greenmount House sits on a hill over looking town (about a 5 minute walk from the center of town). This B&B has been voted Best B&B in Ireland for several years in a row. The rooms are impeccable and the breakfast is unforgettable with many selections and exquisite pastries. 066/915-1414. www.greenmount-house.com. (Moderately priced)
Barr Na Sraide Inn on Upper Main Street is centrally located in town, but on a quiet end of the busy Main Street. The rooms are small, but clean. 066/915/1446 www.barrnasraid.com (moderately priced)
Portmagee:
Moorings Guesthouse: This wonderful little hotel has 14 comfortable and clean rooms. There is a pub downstairs, and a fine restaurant as well. Located right across the street from the pier, it’s a great place to people watch. 066/947-7220 www.moorings.ie
Where to Eat:
Dingle:
The Old Smokehouse. (corner of Main Street and the Mall) This happy but rustic place offers some of the best moderately priced meals in town, with fresh seafood right off the boat. 066/915/1061
Global Village on Upper Main Street offers specialty dishes from around the world. Great atmosphere: 066/915-2325
Out of the Blue, located across from the harbor, is a charming little place with wonderful, gourmet fish entrees. Reservations are a must during high season.
The Stone House Restaurant is about a 15 minute drive outside of Dingle town, on the Slea Head Loop (about 8 miles from town.) The food is exceptional and the atmosphere memorable. 066-915-9970 Reservations a must during peak season
Portmagee:
The Bridge Bar is located downstairs from the Moorings Guesthouse. Serving traditional pub grub, it’s a great place for family dining. There is live music Friday and Sunday nights. 066/9477108.
The Skellig Mist Bakery. Located on the main thoroughfare, this bakery is fabulous. The sandwiches are delicious and perfect to bring on your boat trip to the Skellig Islands. Pastries and cakes are served with tea and outside tables are available when the weather is bright. 066/947-7250.
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